Bonedi Baari Puja

The year was 1757 just after the Battle of Plassey. Raja Naba Krishna Deb decided to celebrate Robert Clive’s victory by having a grand Durga Puja celebration. The autumn months, post monsoon, Rama praying to Shakti for victory against Ravana (akala bodhan , Durga is normally prayed to during spring, hence untimely awakening). The slaying of the demon Mahishasura and Ma with her childen joining in the pomp and pageantry, – till date, a scale unmatched anywhere in the world. It was the beginning of a cult, the beginning of a ten day celebration almost irreverent in its opulence and feasting. The priest chants mantras and one is steeped in the religiosity of the ten days. The opulence of the zamindars and the elite families all vying for attention.

 

The Bonedi Baari Puja literally translated to a puja organised by a family of distinguished lineage. It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. The movement to free our country was underway. Some families were trading and banking on enterprise and resources, becoming richer. Young people educated themselves and the cognoscenti were into literature learning and music. They celebrated with verve their traditions. Durga becoming a metaphor for victory against the oppressor.

These august family Pujas are traditions carried on by future generations. Some managing the same opulence and some curtailed, nevertheless continuing in the spirit of their forefathers. These Pujas are distinguished by a traditional idol unchanged in form on a single platform (Atchala). A thakur dalan or courtyard, chandeliers , big or bigger. The same mantras. Ulluri to welcome the loved Ma, sweets and feasting. Steeped in history of the family and their contributions. There are some variations introduced with interesting narratives.

 

Generally a goat is sacrificed on all days and the menu is non vegetarian. The Sovabazaar Raj baari have a strong Vaishnava leaning and are vegetarian. The most unique character of Chorbagan Chatterjee Bari Durga Puja is that from Saptami to Dashami fish is offered to Devi as bhog.

The Aatchala Durga Puja was started by Lakshmikanta Majumder in 1610 when Mughal emperor Jehangir was ruling Delhi. They were bestowed the title of Roy Chowdhury, it was later in 1698 that the Roy Chowdhurys had to transfer their rights over Kolkata (then Kalikata) to the East India Company pursued by the Mughal Emperors. It was due to this family’s litigation the Supreme court gave its historic verdict on 16 May 2003, that Job Charnock cannot be regarded as the founder of the city and 24th August also cannot be considered as the city’s birthday.

Durga Puja celebrations take place in the two palaces of the Sovabazar royal family of Raja Nabakrishna Deb, founder of the Shobhabazar Rajbari. It was said that Goddess Durga came here to listen to music, the all night music programmes which took place here during Durga Puja at the famous Nach-Ghar (dancing room) Eminent personalities like  Ramakrishna Paramhansa, Swami Vivekanada and Rabindranath Tagore had visited the Rajbari and this famous puja.

 

In Baghbazar, The Durgapuja of Haldarbari started almost 500 years ago. Unlike many other traditional houses the deity is a Mahishashurmardini idol made of Kasthipathar (Touchstone).  One of their ancestors had a divine intervention about this idol, which  was discovered after digging around 14 feet through the floor of a Muslim Fisherman’s house.  The year of discovery is supposed to be 1560.  The idol is of two feet in height. The deity is bejeweled with several ornaments. She has ten arms holding a variety of weapons. Her right foot rests on the back of a lion and the left foot is on the demon Mahishashura. Just above the Goddess is a statue of Mahakal. On each side of her forehead, there are two angels. On the lower side of Goddess, there are two small statues of women holding weapons. These look like Jaya and Bijoya, although traditionally they do not brandish arms while guarding Vaikuntha. The entire idol rests on a lotus.

The founder of the Dakshineswar Kali Temple and a pillar of strength in the male dominated society, Rani Rashmoni started Durga Puja at her S.N. Banerjee Road residence. After her death  in 1861, her sons-in-law and daughters continued the Durga Puja celebrations in their respective premises.

Started in 1855 by Dawaraka Nath Dutta, The Duttas of Thanthania worship “Hara Gouri”   idol alias “Shiva Durga”. Durga is benign and sits on Shiva’s lap. Among many rituals  observed in this house “Dhuno porano” is the star attraction as a number of   married women in unison hold burning Malsas on their palms and heads  and  pray for the peace and well being of their family members. Normally Business Class Bonedi families observe this ritual.

At his Beadon street residence, Ram Dulal Dey (Deb Sarkar) started organizing Durga Puja from the year 1770, more famous as the ‘Chatu babu and Latu babu’ house. Folklore has it that on a whim they often smoked cigarettes made of paper money. The highlight of the idol in their home is the presence of Jaya and Bijaya, the two companions of Parvati, who flank Durga poised on lotuses. They have no Veena or Pot but just have their hands raised

It is said that the guru of Girish Chandra Ghose died during Sandhipuja. After that the practice of Sandhi Puja was discontinued and Kalyani Puja was held to seek the blessings of the Goddess. 108 earthern lamps are also lit  just like in Sandhi Puja.  (as Hara Gouri idol is smaller than the normal Durga idol). The Chal Chitra of the idol features scenarios from Vishnu Puran and Chandi Puran. Dhuno Porano Rituals are observed in this house by several women, although it remains mainly a private affair.  The Idol is carried on the shoulder of 20 men during immersion instead of carrying it in a vehicle.

The Chandra Baari pujo started in 1877 by Ganesh Chandra (Ganesh Chandra Avenue is named after him) after building up the immense Thakurdalan.The Thakurdalan was designed by renowned architect, Srish Chandra Chattapadhyay. The Chandras are both Vaishnavas and Shaktas. The festivities and the naach ghar gave way to intense literary discussions as the Big Five of the Bengal Congress (Nirmal Chandra Chunder, C R Das, B C Roy, Sarat Chandra Bose Tulsi Goswami ) met here to plan and plot for Swaraj. Jawaharlal Nehru, Mahatma Gandhi, Netaji all spent time in this verisame house. Throwback history in a Puja walk with valuable insights into our legacy.

A Saptami Porikroma, a visit to some of them unveiled fascinating stories of yore. The romance of these zamindars, their style and grandeur and desire to outwit or out show each other. Sad perchance as it speaks of the frittering of unimaginable wealth that could have been.

Ram Chatterjee initiated The Durga Puja in their ancestral house.  Goddess Durga is seated here on the lap of Shiva in the form of Hara Gouri. The Lakshmi and Saraswati Idol here are not only taller than Kartick and Ganesh idols and but they are taller than the Durga Idol too. Stuff that woman’s empowerment is made of.

Folklore has it that  Goddess Durga adorned herself with jewels  at Jorasanko’s Shib Krishna Dawn’s house, had lunch at Abhay Charan Mitra’s house at Kumartuli and enjoyed  music and dance at the Shovabazar Rajbari.

The attar seller outside the Sovabazar puja, concocts perfumes in gorgeous crystal vials. The babu with a touch of scent of jasmine and frangipani to tempt and entice. The times when infidelity was acknowledged and women lived by their own rules. Seduced by wealth and the romance of that era. The fragrance lingers!

The Devi arrives! Resides in the hearts of Bengalis as we mourn her departure on the tenth day and await her homecoming again the next year.

Ref Wiki to confirm some facts

A Fun Trivia

These Bonedi baari Pujas became exclusive affairs ousting the general masses. In Guptipara 12 friends started a public Puja in protest. Baroari ( Baro yaari – 12 friends) pujas have become a behemoth as every year they shine, out do in terms of visual splendour, artistry, meaning, social message. A feast for the soul! Indeed!